The peach-inflected 2019 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is considerably plusher and more generous than the Coddington. Medium to full-bodied, the mouthfeel is welcoming and silky, the flavors ranging from yellow peach and grilled pineapple to toasted hazelnuts and even a touch of honey, balanced on the lengthy finish by bright citrus notes.

Kumeu River continues to set the pace for New Zealand Chardonnay, from its unlikely base just west of Auckland. The big news is the addition of a vineyard (Rays Road) in central Hawke's Bay to augment Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production.

Joe Czerwinski, Mai 2021